Not all safaris are created equal

Like a burglar on a suburban driveway, I wince at every little scrunch underfoot. While the breeze is in our favour and there’s enough vegetation to conceal our movements, the parched earth presents a challenge. It’s dotted with gravel. Desperate to steal a close-range glimpse of one of Africa’s most impressive wild animals, I creep forward as softly as I possibly can.

We’re tracking a rhino in the remote Kenyan bush, a delicate undertaking requiring stealth and absolute silence. The animal concerned is not a white rhino — the placid, wide-mouthed grass-eater; it’s an eastern black rhino. They’re critically endangered and notoriously feisty.